Leaks under a slab
A supply line that runs under the concrete floor, most often a hot-water line. The leak spreads through the gravel and soil below the slab and can show as a warm spot, a damp edge or a hot-water loss rather than as a puddle.
Finding supply leaks hidden under slab floors, inside walls and beneath flooring in Orlando homes before the moisture spreads.
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Slab and plumbing leak detection locates water leaking from a supply line hidden under a concrete slab, inside a wall or beneath flooring. In Orlando, many homes are built on slabs, so a leak can run for weeks before a stain shows. Meter checks, moisture mapping and thermal imaging narrow the search. Phones are answered 24/7.
A leak you cannot see is the hardest kind to deal with. Water from a supply line under a slab or inside a wall spreads through the soil, the gravel base or the framing before it appears on the surface, and by the time a floor feels soft or a wall stains, the leak may have been running for weeks. The bill, a warm patch on the floor or a faint smell is often the first clue.
Much of Central Florida housing is typically built slab-on-grade, which means the supply lines typically run through or under a concrete floor rather than a crawl space or an attic. A leak under that floor is hard to reach without opening it, so the detection step is about locating the leak precisely enough that the smallest possible area has to be opened.
Detection is a diagnosis, not a repair. The job is to show where the water is and how far it has travelled, so that a plumber can fix the line and the restoration crew can dry the area that was wet. Finding the leak without the drying plan leaves the moisture in the slab and the flooring above it.
Do not dig, drill or cut into a slab or a wall to look for a leak. Stay off wet tile or vinyl near a live outlet, and keep the water heater's power and gas off if the leak is near its connections. Keep children and pets off the flooring above a suspected leak. Do not pour sealants or chemicals into the line to stop a leak. Call (833) 490-5225 to have the leak located before anything is opened.
A supply line that runs under the concrete floor, most often a hot-water line. The leak spreads through the gravel and soil below the slab and can show as a warm spot, a damp edge or a hot-water loss rather than as a puddle.
A supply or drain line that runs through a wall cavity, often behind a tub, a sink or a laundry closet. The leak soaks the drywall and the framing on one side, and the stain may appear on the far side of the room.
A slow leak at a fitting or a valve that runs under tile, vinyl or wood flooring. The floor lifts or cups over time, and the moisture travels along the subfloor before it shows at a seam.
Tell us what's happening and we'll tell you honestly whether it's a quick fix, and what slab and plumbing leak detection should cost.
Not always. Many leaks can be reached through a small access point or a repair from above the slab, and the plumber chooses the least invasive method after the leak has been located. Some leaks do require opening a section of the floor.
The detection step exists to avoid opening more of the floor than necessary. Once the zone is known, the plumber can often reach the pipe through a cabinet, a wall or a single section of tile.
Ask the plumber to show the leak zone on the moisture map before the floor is opened, and to explain why each access point is needed.
A licensed plumber repairs the supply line, and the restoration crew handles the drying and the flooring. Detection does not repair anything, so ask who will do each part before the work is booked. Get each responsibility written into the scope before work starts.
A plumbing repair usually needs a permit, and the building office for the address decides the requirements. Ask the plumber who pulls the permit and whether the inspection happens before the floor is closed.
Keep the detection report, the moisture map and the plumber's invoice together. Those documents show when the leak was found and how it was handled, which the insurer will ask about.
With every fixture closed, the water meter is read at the start and again after an interval. A moving reading confirms a leak in the supply, and a meter that stays still points to a fixture or a drain instead.
A listening device picks up the sound of escaping water through the slab or the wall, and a pressure test isolates each section of the supply. The result narrows the search to a zone the size of a room or a single run of pipe.
Moisture meters and a thermal camera read the flooring and the walls across the zone. The map shows where the water has travelled, and it often reveals a second wet area that the leak did not obviously reach.
The crew marks the leak zone and the moisture map and gives both to the plumber, who decides how to reach the line. The access is planned to open the smallest area possible, and the plumber's repair is checked by a pressure test before the floor is closed.
Once the line is repaired, the wet slab edge, the subfloor and the flooring above are dried to a reference reading. Flooring and baseboard are replaced only after the readings match, and the record is kept for the insurer.
Hidden hot-water line leaks are a common local concern in slab homes. A supply line under the slab is warm when the heater runs, so a warm spot on the floor on a cool morning is a useful clue, and the water heater's own pan and connections are checked first.
Older houses in Pine Hills and Conway, built mainly from the 1960s through the 1980s, may have supply lines that have aged, and a leak can start at a fitting that has been under pressure for years. The burst pipe water damage page covers the sudden end of that process.
Newer slab-on-grade houses in Lake Nona and Hunters Creek more often show hidden leaks at appliance connections and hot-water lines inside walls, so the detection plan usually begins at the water heater and the laundry closet.
Not sure if you're covered? Check your ZIP code.
Shutting off a split supply line, removing the water and drying the wall cavities and floors it reached in Orlando and Orange County.
Shutting down a leaking water heater safely, drying the garage or closet it wet, and checking the permit before replacement in Orlando.
Rebuilding drywall, trim, flooring and cabinets once a water-damaged building is dry, with licence and permit questions answered first.
Assessing and removing mold that grew after a water loss in Orlando homes, with Florida's individual licensing explained.
This guide publishes no price.
A burst supply pipe can flood a room within minutes, and in Orlando the failures that cause the most trouble are often hidden behind walls or under slabs.
The detection visit is priced on the work it takes to locate the leak, and the estimate is explained and approved before the work starts. The repair and the restoration are separate estimates.
Yes. Turn off the main and watch the meter for a while. If the meter stays still, the leak is inside the house, and if it moves, it is in the supply line before the main or in the service line. Tell the detection crew what you saw.
Often a hot-water line under the slab or in the floor cavity. The warmth comes from the water inside the pipe, so the spot is likely to be where the line runs. Report it and do not cover it with a rug until it has been looked at.
No. Detection locates the leak and maps the moisture. A plumber repairs the line, and the restoration crew dries the area. Ask each trade what it will do before the work begins.
The slab and the subfloor hold water after the leak has stopped, and they dry slowly. Readings show when the area is dry, and the flooring should not be laid until they match the reference.
Ask the plumber for a pressure test after the repair, and check the meter again with every fixture closed. A written note of both readings gives you a record that the leak is no longer running.